We have dinner at another Carluccio's and walk to the theater. We see Titus Andronicus in the smaller Swann Theater. It is a beautiful, "thrust" style theater with wonderful acoustics. Titus Andronicus is Shakespeare's first tragedy and his bloodiest and goriest play. This production does not stylize the violence and at first I am put off, but then I am caught up in the story, the setting and the wonderful acting. Our seats are on the main floor and we could reach out and touch the actors. This is the way it was done in Shakespeare's day. It was a fabulous production!
Friday morning, July 19th, we take a morning walk along the lovely pathway along the Avon River stopping at High Trinity Church where Shakespeare is buried. Then, we walk to Anne Hathaway's cottage about a mile and a half away. it's a hot walk along a main street but a cool drink and snack at a lovely little cafe across the street from the cottage cools us down. We don't do the tour of the cottage because we have been there before. Anne and I do some shopping in town in the afternoon. Anne finds a dress to buy at East, a British clothing company. Dave and I take a tour of the front of the theater at 3:00. Our guide is a 70 year old actor who is well-spoken and interesting with stories of the theater. There are only four of us on the tour so there is plenty of opportunity for questions. The backstage tour was not available today but our guide does take us into the Swann and tells us the history of the theater and such. It was an excellent tour. We meet Anne for an early dinner, again at Carluccio's, go back to the room to change clothes and then go to see Mad World, My Master by Thomas Middleton, a contemporary of Shakespeare's. It was written in 1605 and was in stark contrast to last night's play. This one was crazy, hilarious fun. Amazing how fresh it seemed even today. Another wonderful performance.
Saturday, July 20th we stroll on the path along the river. dave and I go up in the tower at the theater which affords a 360 degree view of the Stratford area. an enthusiastic docent at the top tells us about the theater and the surrounding area. I go the costume exhibit at the theater which is very interesting. the RSC makes all their costumes and they are just beautiful! it is an art. before have lunch and then head for the train station to return to London. We have had a great time in Stratford. Back in London, we have dinner at Chili Cool, a Sechuan restaurant Anne has been wanting to try. It's next to the fish restaurant we went to the first night in Bloomsbury. Anne likes hot food and all the food here is really hot! Since I don't especially like hot food, I was a little worried but I seemed to get used to it and was able to eat what we ordered. The weather was much cooler today, a welcome relief from the heat.
On Sunday, July 21st, we head out in the morning walking along the south bank of the river to go to Southwark Cathedral. Anne likes this one and thought we would like to see it. It is a small cathedral, but lovely inside with a warm, intimate feel. We happen to arrive just as the 11:00 service was beginning so we stay. The choir is lovely in this space and we enjoy the quiet time. We have lunch at a noodle chain called Wagamama. Delicious food. Since we a will pass by the Tate Modern, we stop in so I can try to find Edmund De Waal's exhibit (author of The Hare with the Amber Eyes) but I ask at the information desk and they don't have anything by him. Anne suggests that he might be at the Tate Britain and indeed she is right. Unfortunately, the Tate Britain is not near here so I'm probably not going to get there. It was overcast and pleasant for walking in the morning, but the sun comes out after lunch and it warms up quickly. We are tired and hot by the time we get back to the hotel. We've walked about 6 1/2 miles and will add another couple by the time the day is done. We go to the evensong service at St. Pancras Church right near our hotel. There is lots of music and the choir is ethereal and wonderful. Anne has come here sometimes when she has been in London. Very lovely. We have dinner at a pub, our first pub of the trip, the Norfolk Arms, in the same area as the fish and Chinese restaurants. I like this quiet street with neighborhood type stores and restaurants. We order a selection of tapas and I have my first Pimm's lemonade. I didn't know what Pimm's was so Anne said I had to have it. It was quite good and didn't taste like alcohol at all. We walk Anne back to her place and call it a day. It's been a good one. I am so thankful to have this time with Anne and be able to be here, walk around and enjoy the sights.
Walkway along the Avon River in Stratford
View of Stratford from the tower at the theater
View from tower in the theater
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