Hatfield House, Fish 'N Chips

Saturday, July 27, 2013

Our last day n London. We decide to go to the Hatfield House, a place Anne has been before but doesn't mind revisiting, and she thinks we will like it. Because it has been in the same family for many, many years, many of the 17th century original furnishings and rooms have been preserved in their original state. The family still lives here. As with owners of these big country houses, they have opened it to the public to raise funds to maintain the place. It is quite an operation with an extensive shopping area and restaurant. The property includes the palace where Queen Elizabeth I grew up. It is now rented out for special events. (A repurposed building, wouldn't you say?) We saw members of a wedding party arriving. We rent the audio tour and thoroughly enjoy walking through this lovely building which has many pieces of artwork and valuable artifacts. My favorite paintings are two of Queen Elizabeth I. My favorite room is the library which has floor to ceiling walls of books. 

We make the 20 minute return train ride to London and go to our last dinner in London at an authentic fish 'n' chips restaurant near our hotel that Anne knows about. An appropos way to end the trip, don't you think? The evening will be spent packing and getting ready for,the long trip home tomorrow. We will meet Anne at St. Pancras and go to the airport together. 

This has been a wonderful trip and a special time with Anne.

                Staircase in Hatfield House

 Ceiling in the great hall which was gilded for Queen Victoria's visit

                                  Anne and Dave under the arbor in the garden at Hatfield House

       

                             Library at Hatfield House

            I love this picture of Anne and me

Victoria and Albert Museum, Science Museum and a play, Cripple of Inishmaan

Friday, July 26, 2013

Today we go to the Victoria and Albert Museum, another beautiful, modern museum complete with a great store and cafe. This is a museum of design and decorative arts. There are beautiful objects from different time periods on display here. I spend most of my time in the special fashion exhibit showcasing women and men's clothing from the 1600s to modern times. The rest of the time I spend in the Medieval and Renaissance area. A long, long line of people are waiting to get tickets to the special David Bowie exhibition here. We have lunch in the cafe and watch children playing in the central fountain of the courtyard and think how Kai would like this. 

The Science Museum is across the street so we stop in there. It is filled with children of all ages as there are many exhibits and activities to appeal to kids. Some of the museum is a bit dated, but it would be a good place for kids. 

After a nap back at the room, we again take a taxi to the Covent Garden area and eat dinner at Koha Restaurant near the Noel Coward Theater. We see Cripple of Inishmaan starring Daniel Radcliffe of Harry Potter fame. The whole cast is good and the play is funny. Billed as a dark comedy, we find it more funny than dark. It is a coming of age tale set on an island off Ireland about a crippled boy (Daniel Radcliffe) who finds himself by leaving the island and then returning. We end the day with another pleasant walk home from the theater.

              In the medieval and renaissance room of the Victoria and Albert Museum

                            Statue in courtyard of Victoria and Albert Museum

Oxford, War Horse

July 25, 2013

Today Dave and I took the train from St. Pancras Station to Oxford. Anne was busy today meeting with an antiquarian about the project she and her colleague Noah are working on at University of Missouri. It is about an hour's train ride. The train is full with many people standing. There isn't a lot to see in Oxford but it is an old, old town and it is interesting to walk around and recall it's long history. You can't get into,the colleges but some have doors open so,you can look in and get a glimpse. We go to places we remember from previous visits such as University College where Anne went to school for a semester in her junior year at Pomona. We have lunch at The Mitre where Dave recalls being with Tom Buhl during an exercise at the lab. Tom wanted mushy peas (a menu selection here) on his ice cream and that is what he got. 

After lunch, we go to St. Mary's Church and climb to the top of the tower which affords great views of Oxford. We recall that when we were here with Anne and Steve n 1981, we did rubbings of old tomb carvings. We had them hanging on our walls at home for many years. We found them recently, reminisced and decided to not keep them any longer.

In the evening, we go to see War Horse at the National Theater in Covent Garden. We take a taxi there and have an early dinner at Côte Restaurant near the theater. The lifesize puppets in this production are amazing and are the main attraction. It is a pleasant walk home from the theater, the end of a nice day.

           Interior of St. Mary's Church in Oxford

                                        View of Oxford from St. Mary's tower

London Eye, Hunterium Museum, Champagne Lounge

Today is Steve's 40th birthday. Happy Birthday Steve! I remember the day you were born as if it were yesterday. Steve is in Italy meeting with the Ferrari people so this is a birthday he won't forget.

After breakfast with Anne, again at Le Pain Quotidien in the train station, Dave and I made online reservations for the London Eye, and then took the tube there. We collected our prepaid tickets, then stood in line for 45 minutes. Blessedly, it is about ten degrees cooler today, in the 70s instead of the 80s. I have much more energy when it is cooler. There are about 30 people to each capsule of the Eye. It is air conditioned and one can move around to see all the views. The views of London are pretty spectacular although London doesn't have any really tall buildings so it's skyline isn't particularly impressive. I would say doing the London Eye once is worth it, but I don't need to do it again.

We had lunch at a Prezzo restaurant. This is a chain, but has good, reasonably priced food. Walked from here to the Hunterium Museum which Anne told us about. It's a small museum, but worth going to. It is part of the Royal College of Surgeons and consists of anatomical specimens in jars of all kinds of animals and parts of people. The basic collection belonged to a man by the name of John Hunt, 1718-1783. Making collections of most anything was popular at this time and that is what John Hunt collected, anatomical specimens. However, he also had an interest in anatomy and used the specimens to teach anatomy since using human cadavers was not allowed at the time or was just starting to be done. He became quite wealthy and acquired two spacious homes, one for his family and one for surgical students to live in. He connected the two with a building which housed a lecture hall and laboratorynformdissection. 

Went with Anne to the Champagne Bar on the upper level of St. Pancras train station. Quite nice with a menu of all different kinds of champagne. We each chose one and spent a pleasant hour visiting and people watching. 

Walked to dinner once again at TAS near the British Museum where we ate several nights ago. It has been a very pleasant day.

                                                 Capsule of the London Eye

                                     Parliament buildings for the London Eye

                                                Government Buildings from the London Eye

                                          Linda and Dave in the London Eye

British Museum, Othello

We had thunder and lightening and rain during the night. We have breakfast with Anne at Le Pain Quotidien in St. Pancras train station for a change of venue. After breakfast, Anne goes to the library and Dave and I go to the British Museum. This place is overwhelming to say the least, like the Louvre. It is packed with people! We do Rick Steves' audio tour which covers Egyptian, Assyrian, and Greek civilizations all on the first floor. This hour long tour covers just enough for us with a break in the middle for a rest and snack at the cafe. We are ready to go. It is raining when we leave, but it soon stops and is just kind of muggy. 

We have lunch at a Turkish cafe, the Pitted Olive, on Lee Street, the quiet street near Anne's place with other restaurants we have eaten in. It is delicious! We have a crisp flatbread filled with feta cheese and spinach and warmed up along with three kinds of salads-green, couscous, and humus. 

We have dinner at an Indian restaurant in the same area as the restaurants mentioned above. Can't remember the name. We aren't that hungry so don't order much. We are the only ones in the restaurant probably because it is only 5:30. It taked forever to get our food but when we taste it, it is just delicious! I think it's the best Indian food I've ever had. We decide to take a taxi to the National Theater since we are running short on time. We see a wonderful production of Othello with Adrian Lester as Othello. It is set in modern times with an army theme. Anne thought it was great, too. 

It is a pleasant evening and we walk home, a distance of about 1.6 miles. It has been a very pleasant day.

                     In Egyptian section of the British Museum

                                            Mummies at the British Museum

                                Night view of London from the bridge near National Theater

Museum of London, National Portrait Gallery, Royal Baby

Monday, July 22, 2013

Our hotel is right near the site of a terrorist bombing of a London bus which occurred on July 5, 2005 in which 14 people died. It took place in Tavistock Square and was part of a series of bombings that took place on underground trains that day. There is a memorial to the victims set up against the fence of Tavistock Square.

Reflections and observations of London life:

Trash cans - Few trash cans are to be found on London streets and none whatsoever in train stations because of the possibility of using them for terrorist bombings. Do you know how annoying it is to carry around a handful of trash because one can't find a trash can?? guess I could put it in my bra along with the other stuff I have in there such as cell phone, extra money, tissues, etc. but then there is the possibility of throwing away something valuable along with the trash when a trash can is located. The restaurants In the stations do have trash cans so just be sure to use those. Most of the ones on the street are clear plastic bags held open by a plastic ring at the top.which discourages hiding something in them like a bomb. 

CCTV Cameras - there are surveillance cameras everywhere - on the trains, in the streets, in stores

Crossing London streets - London streets are packed with traffic and the sidewalks with people. There is the issue of traffic driving on the left hand side of the road so one has to be sure to look in the right direction for cars. Helpful writing on the street - "look left," "look right" - help but you still take your life in your hands. The lights take forever to change; meanwhile the crowds of people around you are crossing so you just tend to go with them.

Fashion - Women on London streets are wearing mostly dresses and skirts. About the only shorts I see are in young girls. Almost no jeans or even cropped pants. Current fashion includes maxi length dresses and dresses with a hem longer in back than in front.

Food - Food in London has improved greatly since we were last here 13 years ago and certainly since we first came to London in 1971. There are a ton of coffee shops and casual restaurants, most of them chains, where one can get fresh, relatively healthy meals. Prezzo, Le Pain Quotidien, Itsu, Pret a Manger, Carluccio's are a few of the restaurant chains one sees everywhere. Delicious ethnic food is also readily available. Fresh, sustainable, organic, local have all hit here!

Tube trains were sweltering hot today. Temp was 91 degrees! Some tube ststions require packing into a huge elevator like sardines to get up to street level. The alternative is to walk up in some cases 435 steps! We avoided the elevator stations today because of the heat.

Had breakfast with Anne in Woburn Lane around the corner from our hotel. She went to the library and Dave and I went to the Museum of London which Anne recommended. What an interesting, well done museum! So glad we went. On three levels, the history of London is depicted in modern, interactive displays from prehistoric to modern times. One sees items from each period including clothes, rooms set up to reflect the period and videos on various topics. Last display depicts the 2012 Olympics held in London.

Met Anne in the afternoon and went to the National Portrait Gallery. Took a taxi because of the heat. Not easy to find one. Guess others had the same idea. Portrait Gallery celebrates the art of portraiture and includes modern portraits as well as the old ones we are familiar with, kings and queens and such. There is a portrait competition every year with prizes given. I spent most of my time with this exhibit. Of course, every modern day museum has to have a store and this one has a particularly nice one.

We went right from the Portrait Gallery to the restaurant Anne had picked for us in The City part of London. The tube station was really crowded because of rush hour so we ended up walking to the next one which wasn't as bad. The restaurant, Loch Fyne (lock fine), is in the Leadenville Market area. It is primarily a fish restaurant and has a nice ambience. We enjoyed a wonderful meal with the three of us ordering the whole lemon sole with capers. Had samphire as a side dish. Did not know what this was. Waitress explained that it is a seaweed taken from rocks in Cornwall I believe and has a natural saltiness. Tasted a little like a very fine asparagus. 

As we were walking to dinner we see posters at newsstands that Kate is in labor. Later, we hear that the royal baby has been born, a boy. Congratulations to Kate and William.

Did not take any pictures today but will add a couple from a previous day.

                                               Pretty window boxes are everywhere

                        Not sure about the pink on this one. All others on block were white.

Stratford-upon-Avon, Southwark Cathedral and Evensong at St. Pancras

I am way behind in this blog so I am going to consolidate several days into this post. On Thursday, July18th, we took the 12:15 train from Marleybone Station to Stratford. The train makes a lot of stops so it takes two hours. We don't mind since we like riding trains. We walk from the train station to the hotel Anne has booked for us right in the center of town, the Legacy Falcon Hotel. It is in an very old historic 16th century building. There is a new part but we are in the old part. The floors creak and one has a sense of history here. We have a suite on the top floor to accommodate the three of us. It is not air conditioned, but with the help of a fan and a breeze coming in the windows, the room is quite comfortable. It is so nice to be able to walk from our hotel to the theater, the river or shopping in town. 

We have dinner at another Carluccio's and walk to the theater. We see Titus Andronicus in the smaller Swann Theater. It is a beautiful, "thrust" style theater with wonderful acoustics. Titus Andronicus is Shakespeare's first tragedy and his bloodiest and goriest play. This production does not stylize the violence and at first I am put off, but then I am caught up in the story, the setting and the wonderful acting. Our seats are on the main floor and we could reach out and touch the actors. This is the way it was done in Shakespeare's day. It was a fabulous production! 

Friday morning, July 19th, we take a morning walk along the lovely pathway along the Avon River stopping at High Trinity Church where Shakespeare is buried. Then, we walk to Anne Hathaway's cottage about a mile and a half away. it's a hot walk along a main street but a cool drink and snack at a lovely little cafe across the street from the cottage cools us down. We don't do the tour of the cottage because we have been there before. Anne and I do some shopping in town in the afternoon. Anne finds a dress to buy at East, a British clothing company. Dave and I take a tour of the front of the theater at 3:00. Our guide is a 70 year old actor who is well-spoken and interesting with stories of the theater. There are only four of us on the tour so there is plenty of opportunity for questions. The backstage tour was not available today but our guide does take us into the Swann and tells us the history of the theater and such. It was an excellent tour. We meet Anne for an early dinner, again at Carluccio's, go back to the room to change clothes and then go to see Mad World, My Master by Thomas Middleton, a contemporary of Shakespeare's. It was written in 1605 and was in stark contrast to last night's play. This one was crazy, hilarious fun. Amazing how fresh it seemed even today. Another wonderful performance.

Saturday, July 20th we stroll on the path along the river. dave and I go up in the tower at the theater which affords a 360 degree view of the Stratford area. an enthusiastic docent at the top tells us about the theater and the surrounding area. I go the costume exhibit at the theater which is very interesting. the RSC makes all their costumes and they are just beautiful! it is an art. before have lunch and then head for the train station to return to London. We have had a great time in Stratford. Back in London, we have dinner at Chili Cool, a Sechuan restaurant Anne has been wanting to try. It's next to the fish restaurant we went to the first night in Bloomsbury. Anne likes hot food and all the food here is really hot! Since I don't especially like hot food, I was a little worried but I seemed to get used to it and was able to eat what we ordered. The weather was much cooler today, a welcome relief from the heat. 

On Sunday, July 21st, we head out in the morning walking along the south bank of the river to go to Southwark Cathedral. Anne likes this one and thought we would like to see it. It is a small cathedral, but lovely inside with a warm, intimate feel. We happen to arrive just as the 11:00 service was beginning so we stay. The choir is lovely in this space and we enjoy the quiet time. We have lunch at a noodle chain called Wagamama. Delicious food. Since we a will pass by the Tate Modern, we stop in so I can try to find Edmund De Waal's exhibit (author of The Hare with the Amber Eyes) but I ask at the information desk and they don't have anything by him. Anne suggests that he might be at the Tate Britain and indeed she is right. Unfortunately, the Tate Britain is not near here so I'm probably not going to get there. It was overcast and pleasant for walking in the morning, but the sun comes out after lunch and it warms up quickly. We are tired and hot by the time we get back to the hotel. We've walked about 6 1/2 miles and will add another couple by the time the day is done. We go to the evensong service at St. Pancras Church right near our hotel. There is lots of music and the choir is ethereal and wonderful. Anne has come here sometimes when she has been in London. Very lovely. We have dinner at a pub, our first pub of the trip, the Norfolk Arms, in the same area as the fish and Chinese restaurants. I like this quiet street with neighborhood type stores and restaurants. We order a selection of tapas and I have my first Pimm's lemonade. I didn't know what Pimm's was so Anne said I had to have it. It was quite good and didn't taste like alcohol at all. We walk Anne back to her place and call it a day. It's been a good one. I am so thankful to have this time with Anne and be able to be here, walk around and enjoy the sights.

                                    Our hotel in Stratford

                                  Walkway along the Avon River in Stratford

                                        View of Stratford from the tower at the theater

                                             View from tower in the theater

Hyde Park and Princess Diana Memorial

To top off yesterday, we went to dinner at a restaurant Anne has been to - TAS Anatolian Turkish Restaurant in Bloomsbury. A selection of six or seven meze provided many delicious textures and flavors. The restaurant was buzzing with people and quite warm due to the warm weather. We added two miles walking to and from the restaurant to our walking mileage bringing  it to a total of about 8-9 miles. 

It feels good to be back in London. We wonder why we have not come back sooner. Though a long time, it seems familiar. We love the old buildings, the history and the vastness of the city. It can be overwhelming. One has to try to put some boundaries on what and where you want to go that day and not worry about trying to go everywhere. We are really enjoying the Bloomsbury neighborhood. We have seen quite a few bicycles. Cyclists can use the bus lanes, which are filled with a steady stream of cyclists at commute times, but it still looks pretty hazardous to me. Most aren't wearing helmets. The Tube is so efficient and a great way to get around. Anne had a couple of loaded Oyster cards (like our BART Clipper cards) ready for us when she met us at the airport so we were good to go. Trains come every two or three minutes and you can easily read which station you are pulling into no matter where you are sitting or standing on the train plus a CLEAR announcement is made. BART take heed!

We ate breakfast again at one of the little places in the lane just around the corner from our hotel (much cheaper than the hotel breakfast) followed by a Tube ride to Hyde Park, a place Anne particularly wanted to go. We strolled around this large urban park and found ourselves at the Princess Diana Memorial located in the park. It is a peaceful place of respite amid busy London. A large green area with big trees  borders the main attraction, a water feature resembling a circular meandering stream that one can dangle one's toes in. It is open to all and the place was full of mothers with toddlers and young children waiting for it to open. We enjoyed cooling off by putting our feet n the cool water. What a lovely memorial, one that can be enjoyed by all instead of a statue or something that can't be touched or interacted with. Had lunch inside St. Pancras Railway Station because it is air conditioned. This station is huge with a whole shopping area inside. It is housed in a beautiful Rennaisance building (see picture).

We decide to walk past Buckingham Palace on our way back. The changing of the guard is just concluding and there are masses of people!! I am swallowed up in the crowd and lose Anne and Dave. I have to move with the crowd. Talk about crowd control. Finally, the crowd begins to lighten up and I can backtrack to where I see Anne and Dave across the street. Whew! Reminder to self: you don't need to do this again!

It continues to be quite warm. I am SO glad i booked an air conditioned room! It allows us to sleep well. 

Anne is having dinner tonight with a friend from the States. Dave and I take the Tube to Covent Garden which is teeming with activity. Until 1973, Covent Garden was a big produce market. Now, it is a big shopping area with the stalls of the market containing  all the familiar mall stores, I.e. Gap and stuff, and some I'm not familiar with. There is a large Apple Store here in an old brick building which of course Dave had to stop into. We shared a pizza for dinner and then began a search for some yogurt or ice cream. Alas, we saw not one store! We ended up sharing a bowl of ice cream at the restaurant associated with our hotel.

We are off tomorrow to Stratford for two nights to see two plays. 

                                             St. Pancras Railway Station

                                              Looking out on the lake a Hyde Park

                                                      Princess Diana Memorial

                                                    Street performer in Covent Garden

Arrival and British Library

We arrived yesterday, Monday, July 15, 2013 after a smooth flight from SFO. What a treat to have Anne waiting for us! She lead us to the right Tube station and we were soon on our way to our hotel. Our room at the Ambassadors Bloomsbury Hotel is going to be quite satisfactory. It's very small but at the back side of the hotel where it is quieter. We are in Room 613, the top floor of the hotel. The air conditioning works well! After a seafood dinner with Anne, I returned to the hotel and crashed for ten hours. Dave didn't sleep as well and was up and out for a walk at 5:00.

We spent a couple hours this morning at the British Library where Anne spends so much of her time. It is a big, modern building. We spent our time in the room with historical documents following a Rick Steve's audio tour on our iPhones.

Spent the afternoon with Anne first having a delicious lunch at Carluccio's in Brunswick Center in Bloomsbury and then walking along the Thames River on the south side, crossing the river on the Millenium Bridge and walking back on the north side, 6 1/2 miles according to Anne's walking app. It has been quite warm in London in the high 80's so we got pretty warm. This warm weather looks like it will continue into the weekend.

Couldn't resist these children going on an outing.

Low tech way to collect the garbage! No room on these narrow
congested streets for big garbage trucks.

The River Thames

Anne and Dave on the Millenium Bridge